The Place
As one of the first tenants open for business in the new mall One Museum Place, Dodonpa is well-positioned to satisfy the hunger of the neighborhood’s office workers. This bento-based joint comes from the same team as Ifuku and Ifuku Isaribi, including their namesake chef. As for the ninja theme? Well, these folks see similarities between the lives of frazzled Shanghai worker monkeys and ninjas. While we aren’t currently planning any sneak attacks, we do think we are both equally deserving of a good lunch.
The Food
The bulk of the dining options are donburi (or rice bowls). They do a pretty tasty Char-grilled Eel (RMB138) that you are encouraged to eat in Central Japanese style. That means trying the original flavor of the dish first. After that, you can season with a bit of nori and wasabi. Finally, pour in homemade dashi stock to turn the leftover rice into chazuke (or rice in tea). That’s great because this food correspondent happens to believe soupy rice is as comforting as a warm embrace. Steamed Eel (RMB98) that is served with a runny egg and shredded onions also hits the spot.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Chef Ifuku was born into a family of fishermen in Miyazaki prefecture on Japan’s southern island of Kyushu, and the traditional method of drying and salting seafood overnight, ichiyaboshi, makes an appearance on this menu. You can try Overnight Dried Fish Sets (RMB58/mackerel, RMB88/greenling fish) or the excellent Overnight Dried Chicken (RMB58) with sour and spicy yuzukosho sauce. The latter is only available for dinner.
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Additional standouts include Japanese Miso Grilled Steak (RMB168, also a dinner special) and Soft Boiled Egg and Miso Pork Cutlets with Rice (RMB68). When we crave Japanese food in the middle of the day, this donburi featuring tender marinated pork with a light char and intense umami is what we are thinking. Burst open the jiggly onsen egg to unleash a rich egg yolk ‘sauce.’
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
The aptly named ‘Cute Overload’ (RMB48) is one for the kids. If smiley face rice balls and octopus-shaped sausages don’t calm your kiddos down after a long day at the Natural History Museum across the way, we don’t know what will.
Food Verdict: 2.5/3
The Vibe
Image by Cristina Ng/That's
Most people eat lunch, and yet it’s rarely the most exciting meal of the day. That’s why it’s nice to see Dodonpa put the effort into a whimsical concept backed up by solid Japanese eats. With affordable bottles of sake on hand, we only wish they stayed open beyond 10.30pm.
Vibe Verdict: 1/2
Total Verdict: 3.5/5
Price: RMB70-200 per person
Who’s going: worker bees, families
Good for: midday dining, early dinners, fast-casual Japanese cuisine
[Cover image by Cristina Ng/That's]
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